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Current No. Genuine BMW. Founded in in Bavaria, Germany BMW has produced high performance automobiles since the release of the sensational roadster.

Introduction of the e9 CS coupes and e24 6 series coupes paved the way for the iconic e30 which created and dominated the executive sports sedan market securing BMW an indelible page in automotive history. Not content to rest on its laurels BMW cultivated the 7 series as a worthy antagonist to the Mercedes S-class sedans and released the exotic i to compete with the CL and CL luxury performance coupes. Establishing itself also as a premier luxury car manufacturer BMW has secured an enviable spot at the table with the German big three.

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When you buy Genuine BMW parts you're buying and replacing the parts on your vehicle with a part of the exact same quality, fit, and finish of the original. Genuine BMW sets the standard for your vehicle. If this is not the exact DSC Control Module Rebuilt you are looking for, or you would like this part in a brand other than Genuine BMW, please contact us and one of our customer service experts will help you locate the exact part you need.

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This information is only a summary. Complete shipping and return policy information can be found in our web site policies.Privacy Terms. Skip to content. Quick links. BMW e81 warm starting problem. Got a problem with your BMW 1 Series? Post your car problems here and seek advice from fellow car owners. First post here and I wanted some help with a problem that I really can't explain why it happens and I wanted your opinion and your experience if possible.

A month ago I bought a used BMW i e81 ps for a fairly good price, with some minor cosmetic problems and a mechanical one I think, maybe it's electrical one I don't know. This problem is engine related to not starting when the engine is warm and after normal driving. Furthermore, when the engine is cold, it starts fine, after normal driving the idle is somewhat rough and if I shut it down, the engine is cranking but it won't start at all.

All I can hear is that the engine is trying to start, I can notice some cycles that are complete, but no luck at all. And here is the strange part! If I drive with high revs not below 3K Rpm and complete my trip, then after I shut down the engine, the car will start normally and with good idle Rpm. Also I did a little test. I drove to my workplace normally around 30km and I noticed again the rough idle after parking.

Then I throttled at around 7k Rpm, shut the engine down and afterwards it started normally with a little bit of a rough idle. Before I bought it, the previous owner told that the car needed a low pressure fuel pump replace and so I did replaced with a VDO one and is working properly.

Now after some searching I am pointing towards crankshaft sensor, leaking injectors, bad sparkplugs, dirty vanos solenoids and maybe faulty relays but still not sure which of these are creating this faults.

BMW diagnostic said that I maybe! Cleared the faults two weeks ago, and drove around km and still no faults appeared since then. But this starting issue remains and is very dangerous when driving in traffic.

Hope I gave you a good picture of this problem and sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance everyone! Re: BMW e81 warm starting problem. It turned out that when the engine is warm, the pressure at the high pressure railway is unstable and falling. It should work at a constant bar and when warm it works at bar. After I touch the throttle the pressure comes again at bar. Weird huh? Tested the low and high pressure fuel pump, the igniters, the DME unit, the fuel filter, and all the related cables leaving out the injectors cause of lack of time.

I also noticed that there is a difference at the left and right quantity meters of the tank, where the left has 6 litres and the right 30 litres. Also if I turn the engine off I can see the pressure is holding at these values it was working but if I turn it on, the engine will crank but no luck of turning back on, while the pressure is dropping at 40 bar.

Board index All times are UTC.Below you will find the most complete list of BMW trouble codes available. The code definitions are a good starting point when determining the cause of the service engine light but where do you go from there? We have a large number of resources to help you repair the problem. Here is how we suggest you proceed. Look up your code definition. This tells you where to start testing. If you are unsure of any abbreviations, check out the acronym list by clicking on the link at the left.

Next, read our article Automotive Circuit Testingand if there is an article related to the system you are testing, such as Oxygen Sensors or EGR concerns, read these as well. They will provide valuable info! If there is a link to a specific diagnosis strategy for the code then follow that and start testing. If there is no procedure for your manufacturer specific code, then I suggest referring to a similar generic OBD II code these are listed numerically by system type to get a good idea of what to look for.

If at this point you still need assistance use the "Get Help" link and let us know how we can help. We do ask that you please read the info available on the site first so that we can help reduce repeat questions. So please read our Disclaimer and when you're ready jump in!

Also, we value your feedback and like to hear stories of unusual fixes or concerns you may have run into with your Check Engine Light, so feel free to share your experiences by using the "Contact Us" link.

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BMW Check Engine Light Codes

We do our best to update these BMW check engine light codes as frequently as possible. If you find one missing let us know and we we'll add it immediately! Please use the form on our Contact Page to get in touch with us. We certainly understand how frustrating it can be to look for a code definition and have it not online when you need it.

And lets face it, if the service engine light is on then you need it now! It's easiest to use the "Find On This Page" feature of your browser's "Edit" menu to find codes on this page as the list is quite long.

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These are listed in numerical order for easy searching. Connect scan tool to the pin data link connector DLC located underneath the steering column. The connector may have a removable cover. Turn the ignition on. Remember, these are manufacturer specific codes only.

Manufacturer Specific Codes.The last time the dealer did this scan on my car, I don't recall it being connected to a charger.

In actuality, I seem to recall that the engine was running during the scan. Questions: 1 Should the car be connected to a battery charger when performing a scan? When you program is when you want it connected to a power supply. When you are doing diagnostics its not necessary. But you can flatten the battery by working on the car so charging the battery after working on the car is a good idea.

Is it OK to leave the engine running while doing the diagnostics? Yes if you are doing one of the procedures and it won't hurt but I don't see the point if you are just trying to read the error code history. I had some suspicions that the car was not going to sleep. The dealer offered to run the diagnostic test for codes and I was present for the test.

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I assume that codes were run for all systems, but perhaps they were just run for the systems that related to my issue. It was not present the last time codes were run about a year ago. They showed me the data report and there were several entries in which the car had woken up from sleep mode something about exceeding 80mA.

I assume that DED is the code for those entries, but the actual code only appeared once in their data report. Would this explain why the engine was left running during the diagnostic test? BMW tech here,no this is not why the car was left running during diagnostic,,BMW just recommends to attach a battery charger during diagnostic,it just BMW safety so you don't drain the battery,,so to get around it as a tech we sometime just leave the car running while we diagnostic,,sometime we have to have it running anyways to perform some test,my blog page bmwtechnician.

Up to minutes in some cases. Instead of connecting the car to a power supply, the tech ran the motor so the alternator was supplying power for the car. It's perfectly safe to do when reading fault history.

I wouldn't worry too much about it. Clear it and see if it comes back. If your car did not go to sleep, you most likely would not be able to start the car in the morning Sleep time is dependent on how your car is optioned. For example, cars equipped with handsfree phone options take up to 1 hour to fall into sleep mode.

Terms of Use. Privacy Policy.Remember Me? Private First Class. I've been having problems with a rough idle and hesitation in gear when the car is cold on really cold mornings. It almost kind of bucks sometimes when you're giving it gas in gear when the car was just started on a cold morning. Does anyone have any experience with this issue? Also, is it possible to replace this particular O2 sensor from the top of the motor or is it necessary to pull the downpipes?

Appreciate 0. I say e85 issue. I hardly run it but everytime I do this code comes up and I have brand new O2 sensors. Like I said in the original post, I don't run e Bumping this old post but I'm getting the exact same issue. Did you end up fixing this??

P0171 BMW - Mixture Control System Too Lean

Joint Chiefs of Staff. Originally Posted by 7smurfs. Find More Posts by mike x-ph. Originally Posted by mike x-ph. If no E85 is being used and you do not have an E85 map on the car, check the sensors. Thanks for your reply! Were you referring to the low fuel pressure sensor? If so, is there any real way to check if it is working correctly?

Or do I simply replace it? All times are GMT The time now is PM. BMW Garage. Mark Forums Read. Thread Tools.

BMW N51 fault code 29E1 Mixture Control Bank 2

Appreciate 0 Tweet. Find More Posts by Stvee. Find More Posts by Grinchxvx. Find More Posts by 7smurfs. Quote: Originally Posted by 7smurfs Bumping this old post but I'm getting the exact same issue.In Ihrem Webbrowser ist JavaScript deaktiviert. Leider sind die Fehler nicht verschwunden, aktuell kehrt vor allen Dingen der Fehler E0 - Gemischregelung Bank 1 Gemisch zu mager immer wieder auf.

Danach kann ich das Auto fahren ohne das die MIL angeht. Stelle ich den Hobel ab, und starte in nach einer Standzeit von min im warmen Zustand, dauert ers maximal m bis die MIL angeht und P Gemisch zu mager gesetzt ist. Leistung hat er, so lange der Fehler nicht durch die DME gesetzt wird, und zieht sauber durch. Wurde dort ggf mit "Serienstandsverbesserungen" anders umgegangen?

Dieser Beitrag wurde bereits 1 mal editiert, zuletzt von meiner Juliaus folgendem Grund: blurb. Ohne jetzt Panik verbreiten zu wollen, aber bist du dir sicher, dass du mit einem eventuell defekten Injektor noch so weit fahren willst?

Hier ein Auszug von jmd. Edit: n54tech. Vorhin noch mal kurz 10km gedreht und den HOchDruck mitgeloggt, der war ok.

Laut einiger Recherche und Ablaufplan steht wie bereits angenommen als erstes ein Softwareupdate an bevor weiter gesucht wird Serienstand. Ein evtl. Je nachdem ob du K-Line oder D-Can hast unterschiedlich schnell. Als ich aber mal im M6 ab Vollgas beschleunigen wollte hing der Druck irgendwann bei ca Bar und wollte nicht ansteigen. Kann mir ja nicht vorstellen, dass die HD-Pumpe mal volle Leistung bringt und mal nicht. Juli Hatte ich selbst ohne irgendwelche Fehler.

Bzw auch nur Fehler auf einem Zylinder. Danach kommt der Fehler nur im Teillastbereich. Bei mir war es damals z. Als Tipp kann ich sagen Tausch immer beide also vordere oder gleich alle 4. Bei den hinteren muss aber die DP runter. Die Werte was die HD Pumpe bringen muss weiss ich leider nicht mehr aber es war iwas mit ner 8 vorne dran wo man diese mit Tune tauschen soll.

Und das nur weil so ein schei Da fehlt kein Topf, alle laufen mit.User Name Remember Me? Hey guys, I've been dealing with a lot of issues with this car and quite frankly I just want the to be over.

With that being said, the issue at hand is this code. I've done a Google search that got me nowhere and I'm wondering if anybody has an cure for this code. The car is a E92 My symptoms are a rough idle, lack of power, and it's shut off twice.

The rough idle feels like it's about to misfire but never does.

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Any info helps. Thanks in advance. Here's some logs from last night. Hopefully they help. When is the idle rough? On cold start, or all the time. Originally Posted by Dave Fuel-it! Originally Posted by DoobiieDripp. If you are getting 29E0 and not getting 29E1, then that is generally a hardware issue as Dave stated. Injector, O2 sensor, etc. Did you reset adaptions after replacing the O2 sensor? Click on our banner to visit our website!

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Remember Me? Mark Forums Read. DoobiieDripp Junior Member. Send a private message to DoobiieDripp. Find all posts by DoobiieDripp. Attached Files. Super Moderator. On cold start, or all the time, Burger Motorsports Home of the JB4 the worlds most popular turbocharged tuning system!

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